Zac Peterson
Zac Peterson
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Visit the Kalinago Indian Reservation, the last Native American settlement in the Caribbean

Due to lack of development, Dominica is the only island in the Americas that Christopher Columbus would still recognize. The mountainous island nation remains covered in rainforest, and is the only place left in the Caribbean where Carib Indians still live. These were the native people who island hopped throughout the Caribbean islands from South America, and settled in large numbers. However, they were decimated by Columbus and subsequent European contact. Today there is only one Carib Indian reservation left, in St David Parish on Dominica’s east coast.

There are about 3000 Carib people (also known as Kalinago) living within the reservation. Up until the last half of the 20th century, the territory was almost completely cut off from the outside world. In the last 30 years, power and utilities were extended to the area. Today it looks similar to the rest of Dominica, but with more thatched buildings.

The best way to experience traditional indigenous culture is by driving to Kalinago Barana Autê, off the road north of the Salybia Police Station. If you don’t have a car, you can get here by local bus for about $9.50 EC ($3.52 US). Buses are most easily picked up at the Old Market in Roseau, but any bus can be flagged down.

Kalinago Barana Autê is a restoration of a traditional Kalinago Indian village. Strangely, the architecture looks Polynesian. This is a great spot to meet indigenous Dominicans, and learn about their history. Located in a beautiful bay, above Isulukati Waterfall, the village includes several traditional buildings, including a large ceremonial hall which is still used for dances and events. Today music, dance, and the creation of tradition arts and crafts are important elements of Kalinago life. At the village, you can watch women basket weaving, and purchase baskets for ridiculously low prices. There are also wood carving (from canoes to masks) and plant collection and processing activities to observe. Entrance to the village is $21 EC (US $8), and a guided tour costs $5 EC ($2 US).

Nearby, there are also many small communities in the Kalinago territory to explore. If you want to stay in the area, there are several homestays. Touna Kalinago Heritage Village is located to to the north in Concord, and is interesting to visit. There you can hang out with local people and swim in a river. To the south in Sineku, a cool natural attraction is L’Escalier Tête Chien, which is a natural staircase leading out of the ocean. According to Kalinago legend, it was created by a massive bao constrictor. Southwest of L’Escalier Tête Chien is Madjini Pool, another place to swim. You can also visit Antrizel Beach in Atkinson, although beware of rip currents if you decide to swim here. Additionally, section 6 of the Waitukubuli National Trail passed through the territory. This goes over Horseback Ridge, which offers a panoramic view of the area.

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